Introduction
The coast of Belize is dotted by over 200 cayes, pronounced “KEES” and originating from the Spanish word “cayo,” which are scattered off the mainland. North Americans are familiar with the Florida Keys, and our cayes are pronounced the same way. These cayes vary greatly in size, from small patches of mangrove forest barely spanning half a block to the largest among them, Ambergris Caye, stretching 25 miles in length and almost 4.5 miles across at its widest point. While some of these islands are populated by humans, others remain solely the domain of wildlife.
Land and Sea
As you sail along the coast of Belize, you might come across what appears to be a diminutive house emerging directly from the water in the distance. Perched on a caye, this small wooden structure barely has enough space around it to remain above the waterline. Cayes begin as tiny mangrove dots, which attract birds, guano, and grains of sand carried by the breeze. Over time, they expand into fully fledged islands. The locals in Belize refer to this process as “rising.” Perhaps this peculiar little house serves as a form of staking a claim on the sea, a unique form of homesteading. More often now, the little houses are a fisherman’s camp.
The majority of the cayes are nestled within the shelter of the Belize Reef, a nearly 200-mile-long barrier that runs parallel to the mainland. Without the protective embrace of this reef, acting essentially as a breakwater, the islands would be eroded by the relentless pounding of the surf. Within the confines of the reef, the sea adopts a tranquil demeanor, its surface calm and shallow, beckoning visitors with its inviting allure. Some areas boast a seabed of pristine white sand, enhancing the water’s already captivating aquamarine hue. Mangroves flourish in these protected waters, providing ideal breeding grounds for the diverse marine life that captivates divers from around the globe.
Fauna
The uninhabited islands teem with an array of exotic wildlife, although larger cayes tend to host fewer animals and birds due to increased human visitation. Nevertheless, you’re likely to encounter the common iguana, which can reach lengths of over six feet and is a local food source. Additionally, its smaller relative, the wish-willy or spiny-tailed iguana, boasts menacing spines along its back and, despite being primarily vegetarian and generally harmless, can wreak havoc on gardens. Other creatures lurking in the underbrush include opossums, armadillos, raccoons, peccaries, deer, pacas (known locally as gibnuts), and perhaps even ocelots. Noteworthy among the island fauna are the giant blue land crab and the hermit crab, the latter known for its habit of taking up residence in vacant shells, occasionally abandoning them in unexpected places like the cradle of a tall tree.
The islands are home to two snake species: the boa constrictor and the black-tailed indigo. Renowned for their prowess in rat-catching, these snakes are generally considered harmless to adults, particularly those too large to be constricted. However, caution should be exercised as they may bite if provoked; thus, it’s advisable to watch over small pets and children. The islands also host a variety of frogs and lizards, among which the Central American basilisk stands out. This small lizard is known for its remarkable ability to sprint upright on its hind legs, even across water surfaces, earning it the local nickname “the Jesus Christ lizard.” Another fascinating inhabitant is the black anole, which displays a vibrant salmon-pink throat pouch to assert dominance over territory or attract potential mates.
Birds
However, it is the avian inhabitants that truly steal the show in this untamed realm. Thriving across the myriad cayes, from small mangrove patches to bustling tourist hotspots, are a dazzling array of birds. The skies are painted with the vibrant hues of hundreds of land birds, among which 27 varieties of migrant warblers dance gracefully. Birdwatchers are treated to sightings of magnificent frigatebirds, brown pelicans, cormorants, royal terns, laughing gulls, and brown and red-footed boobies. The prime season for birdwatching on the cayes unfolds during September and October, when thousands of birds embark on their southward migration. Many opt to linger, spending the winter nestled within these island havens. Wading birds have discovered the islands to be an ideal abode year-round, with snowy egrets, green herons, great egrets, cattle egrets, little blue herons, great blue herons, and countless others gracing the landscape with their presence.
The Maya On Ambergris Caye
The original settlers of the cayes were the Maya people. While limited information exists about their culture during that era, more insights have been gleaned from Ambergris Caye. Here, remnants such as pottery shards scattered across sites like Marco Gonzalez, Chac Balam, and Santa Cruz hint at the island’s significance as a trading hub. Visitors can explore these archaeological sites, though it’s advisable to do so with a guide. Guides can provide valuable context and connect visitors with individuals knowledgeable about the Maya heritage of the island.
Most people visit Ambergris Caye in Belize and enjoy the beaches, the nightlife, the great food and the diving. What many people don’t know, however, is that the island was once home to the ancient Maya, and yes, they left their mark.
The site of Marco Gonzales, 8km south of San Pedro Town, was once a very important trading post for the Maya of the region. The site was occupied for about 2100 years but was abandoned most likely to the rising sea level and mangrove encroachment of the area.
Located on Ambergris Caye, the Marco Gonzalez Reserve is unlike any Maya Ruin in Belize. Ancient Maya Civilizations were known for their remarkable trade system, and Marco Gonzalez was an important hub in a thriving maritime trade system that moved goods down the Yucatan coast all the way through Central America. This trading post, 5 miles south of San Pedro Town, is thought to have been active from 100 B.C.E. until about 1500 C.E. and consisted of at least 49 known structures. The site is open to tourists, and guides may be arranged.
Spanish Influence
During the mid-1800s, Spanish-speaking refugees sought refuge in Belize from the violence and strife of Mexico’s Caste War, which pitted the Maya against the Mexicans. Many of these refugees chose to settle in Belize, establishing lineages that persist and flourish even several generations later.
Buccaneers
During the 17th century, pirates discovered the cayes surrounding the Belizean mainland to be ideal havens for laying low, seeking refuge from storms, resting, indulging in rum, repairing their ships, and restocking their provisions of water and food. Remnants such as small caches of gold coins and ancient bottles dating from this era attest to the pirates’ frequent use of these islands. Historically, locals vehemently discouraged outsiders from using metal detectors, fearing they might stumble upon one of the legendary treasures buried by pirates on the islands.